Small Dog Grooming in Tampa

•  Please give 24 hours' notice to cancel. It's easy, just reply X to the appointment reminder text.
• Clients who arrive over 15 minutes late for an appointment, will need to reschedule.
• If you book more than one dog, and do not arrive with the number booked, you will be charged for the dogs that did not come.

•  Our pet grooming Hair Care Services are designed to make dogs feel safe and comfortable. We strive to maintain a healthy coat and skin. All services are provided by a Certified Groomer. Expect your pet to be in the salon for at least 1-2 hours.
• Most pets are ready to go home within two hours.
• Circumstances such as thunderstorms, senior pets, & puppies may cause delays in my schedule.
• Pets may be here one hour for one appointment, and two hours the next. Please plan accordingly.
• Multiple dog households can expect the grooming to take at least 1.5 hours per pet.

No. We have no crates in the salon. The smallest enclosure is 6 x 4’ with an all glass door. We also have large rooms. 

No. Most pets are ready to go home within 2 hours. They do have access to potty pads.

Yes. We welcome pet parents to wait in the lobby.

• I offer While You Wait services in the waiting room to those who prefer that option. The service will not be faster than usual. 
• To reduce crowding in the waiting room, only one person can wait inside for each family of pets. 
• Please do not leave and return, as this upsets the dog. 
• If you leave, wait for a text to inform you that the dog is ready.

The salon can be seen on the monitor in the lobby on request.

All pets are dried by hand , no cage dryers.

Suzanne is a National Award winning Certified Master Groomer, Certified Canine Esthetician, & Salon Safety Certified. I have been grooming for over 40 years.

We have video surveillance if we are not in the same room.

Yes, by law all pets are required to have rabies. A vaccination plan should be discussed with your veterinarian.

• Rabies vaccinations are required by law for all dogs over 6 months old, unless exempted by a veterinarian.
•  Protecting your pet from preventable disease and viruses is the owner's responsibility. Please follow your veterinarian's advice for vaccine recommendations. I use the AAHA protocol for my own pets.
• Puppies must bring the most recent receipt from the vet, this will show us that they have had 3 series of core puppy vaccines.

By law all pets over 6 months old must show proof of current rabies vaccination unless exempted by a veterinarian.

All puppies and new clients must show proof of core vaccines, as seen in  the AAHA guidelines for vaccination protocol. https://www.aaha.org/aaha-guidelines/vaccination-canine-configuration/vaccination-recommendations-for-general-practice/

We recommend that you follow your vets advice for your individual dog.

 I do titers for my dogs once the core vaccinations are complete.

Please fill out the forms and send us a copy of proof of rabies vaccination. We understand that senior pets may no longer get rabies vaccines. Puppies not old enough for Rabies are exempt, but must bring current shot records. 

Email Proof of current Rabies Vaccination to 

grandestylepetgrooming@gmail.com

Or bring the most recent receipt from the vet, this will show us what we need to see. A rabies tag will suffice as well. Many vets now have portals to access shot records.

Thank you again for choosing us to care for your pets!

Puppies cannot come until they have had 3 series of puppy shots. This is typically about 16 weeks old. Puppies must be current on vaccinations.

We only provide services that the individual puppy is emotionally ready to receive.

• Services include a salon bath with premium Igroom products.
• Hand dried with warm air. 
• Full brush out for untangled coats. 
• 5 minutes Shedding hair removal.
• Nails shortened and filed.
• A Full Groom appropriate for your dog, the starting price is $75.

Yes. Scissored styles are only  available for certain coat types.

Yes. If important to you, bows and bandannas should be requested.

•  I accept pets who are able to physically and mentally handle the rigors of professional grooming.
• For the comfort and safety of the dogs in my care, I rarely accept  pets with broken skin, serious dental issues, badly matted hair, or ear infections. 
• I do not perform any service that causes any pet undue stress, if the pet is stressed, I may decide to stop work and discuss the options with the pets owner.
• Pets must enter and exit the salon on a leash, in your arms, or in a carrier. 
• Please do not give your pet anything to relax the prior to the groom.
•  I only give treats if you provide them.
• If the dog has abnormal ears, we can only use an ear wash prescribed by your veterinarian.
• We will offer no service that will cause damage to your dogs coat or skin.

• Dogs with matted hair are usually referred out to another groomer.
• We do not shave down badly matted coats.
• Do not attempt to cut out mats & tangles yourself.

So, you want to grow your dogs hair longer. I hear this a lot. Dogs are beautiful with long flowing coats. That natural, scruffy, shaggy, puppy look is adorable. You try to keep the hair brushed, you really honestly do.

But your dog is young. She needs to learn. She doesn’t like it, That’s okay, that’s what a professional is for, right? Wrong! Pet groomers are actually pet stylists. The one responsible for caring for the condition of the dog is the owners of the dog. The reason for this is that the maintenance of the coat is a constant routine. The level of difficulty depends upon the length of the coat, and other factors such as:

1. Do you wash the dog?

2. Does the dog swim or go into a wading pool?

3. Do you leave a harness on the dog?

4. Does the dog wear clothing?

5. If the dog is in full coat, or has a lot of hair around the neck, does she wear a collar?

6. If you wash your dog, do you that very same day, thoroughly brush and comb that dog over every inch of it’s body?

All of these factors determine the amount of work necessary to maintain the coat. I specialize in maintaining a full coat. My own dogs, and many of my clients dogs have had coats in amazing condition.

It is a labor of love. The secret is dedication. It is not a chore, it’s actually a bonding time for you and your pets IF and only IF both of you enjoy it.

Sometimes it can become frustrating, the dog fights the brush, or you give the dog a quick bath with no brushing only to later realize that was a disastrous decision. Or you leave the cute Christmas sweater on for 3 days while we have freezing temperatures, only to end up with a completely shaved down dog.

Sometimes, clients think, no worries, the groomer has special techniques, special tools, and wonderful conditioning treatments that they are trained to use in the event that your dog gets a few little mats. And to an extent, this is true.

The problem is, when we brush out matted hair, it hurts. And when the dog already hates the brush, it can be traumatizing. Sometimes I can do it once, to save the dogs coat, but the next time, the dog says NO. I often have clients prefer for me to save the coat, to please keep the hair that I trimmed short underneath the last time, and to let the coat grow. But if the coat is matting at this shorter length, why should we grow it longer?

The dogs owner must listen to the pet. If the pet cannot tolerate the brush, then keep the hair shorter until the training and routine are established.

The routine and tools depend on the desired length of coat and the type of coat that the dog has. Long flowing silky coats benefit from the use of an Artero or Chris Christensen Pin Brush, an Artero Comb, a Chris Christensen Poodle comb, and a Chris Christensen Face Comb.

Curly bushy coats benefit from the use of the Artero slicker brushes and the Chris Christensen Poodle Combs, and Artero Combs. The type of pins on the slicker depend on the depth of coat and the area you are brushing. I use both and go back and forth using both brushes on each dog, using the stiffer shorter pins on mats, the legs, and sometimes under the arms, and the longer pins in the areas where the hair is longer and thicker.

Oh, the dog won’t let you brush and comb??? Okay, let’s cut the hair shorter for now. We can ease the dog into the routine, or change the game plan all together.

Like for instance, my dog, Ammo. He is a Champion Poodle. He is gorgeous in a traditional style. But he hates having his feet shaved which is necessary to create that style. No amount of conditioning or training helped him to accept it. So I changed my expectation of what I wanted. He is adorable in his custom style, and best of all he is happy.

People often ask, “Should I brush every day ?” Or “How often should I brush?”. The answer is different in each situation. 

For me personally, If I am in charge of keeping a long flowing coat, such as the one on my Cocker Spaniel pictured below, I would wash, blow dry, brush and thoroughly comb every 5 days. That is a general rule for me, even my Poodles in show coat were done every 5 days.

Some will argue that point, but the proof is in the result.

Most people don’t want to pay the groomers for this time this often, so that is why, if it’s important to you, that you must learn to do that part at home.

I often will refuse service if I feel that a dog will be traumatized as I am trying to help a client get through the learning curve. This does not mean that I am unhappy with you, or that I think that you are a bad pet parent. It is to help you move towards learning to do the work needed, or to help you to come to the decision to change your game plan.

Grande Style Pet Grooming offers maintenance grooming services for busy pet parents. We have many clients who love their pets fluffy hairstyles without all of the work involved. We have both weekly and biweekly maintenance schedules.

For wire coat breeds, some people worry that stripping will hurt their pet but, if it’s done correctly, it shouldn’t bother a healthy dog. The bulk of the coat, where it’s thickest-on the back, hips, neck, and around the ears-is easy to strip. (In more sensitive areas, like around the face and on the underbelly, clipping is just fine.)

Here’s a moderate, three-pronged approach that will keep your pet looking show-dog fabulous:

1. Rolling. Instead of pulling out an entire coat of dead hair at once (leaving your dog patchy and peach-fuzzy), pluck out little bits of dead coat over time, teasing out the dead hairs with your fingers whenever you happen to have a few minutes. Use your index finger and thumb to grasp the hair close to the root, then pull gently and smoothly in the direction of hair growth. You can use those little rubber finger-tip covers or chalk to get a better grip.
2. Double Brush, Double Comb. Once a week, brush the wire coat with the pin brush. This stimulates the skin and pulls out some of the dead hair and any excess undercoat. Next, comb through the coat with a medium-toothed comb to remove tangles. Then take a fine-toothed comb to the coat-really get down to the skin, and make sure all tangles are out and the coat is smooth. This will remove a lot of dead hair. Finally, go over the whole coat with a slicker brush. Even if you don’t want to strip your dog at all, this brushing and combing technique will still make a big difference. Done in conjunction with stripping, the results will be spectacular.
3. Go With the Pro: Finally, let a professional groomer do the clipping part. Many wire-coated breeds have specific clips that distinguish them, from the moustache and beard to the rear-end furnishings.

I do not pluck ears. I use Vetoquinol Ear Cleansing Solution on healthy ears. Abnormal ears are left untouched and should be evaluated by a veterinarian.

If the ear hair is in the exogen phase, and is sitting loose, I will take it out of the ear.

The dogs ear canal is shaped like a capital letter L, glands and hair line inside the dog’s ear. The glands produce wax, and the hair moves it up and out to clean the ear. This is the way it is supposed to naturally. Dogs ears are self-cleaning! 

A normal, clean ear should pink and free of debris.  

In the past, it has been recommended that dogs should have hair-free ears and ear plucking has been a regular part of dog grooming. 

New evidence has revealed that ear plucking in the normal, healthy ear is not necessary. Excessive ear plucking may actually result in micro-trauma and inflammation to the ear canals. This may predispose your dog to an ear infection. 

If your vet insists that ear hair be plucked, I recommend that the vet be the one to do it.

Alternatively, ears can be trimmed of excessive long hairs from the ear. This can  help reduce the amount of ear wax that gets trapped in the ear,  thereby minimizing the ear odor. This is commonly recommended by veterinary dermatologists.

   An ear cleansing solution  can help reduce the incidence of ear problems. I use Vetoquinol Ear Cleansing Solution in my salon. 

   Some pets are prone to ear problems and may need a regular ear cleansing between veterinary visits. 

I suggest using an ear cleansing solution every time your pet gets wet, as this helps dry out any moisture in the ear canal. I follow the instructions in the video immediately after each and every bath or swim.

Ear cleansing can help remove dirt and wax that builds up as a normal part of epithelial migration (“self-cleaning”). It can also reduce the buildup of bacteria or yeast that may contribute to inflammation or infection.

   This is easy to do at home, see the video below  demonstrating the correct ear cleaning procedure.

 In my salon we always do this to prevent issues with your pets right after the final rinse in the tub ( only in healthy ears). 

Clients are encouraged to bring their own veterinarian recommended ear cleanser. 

   Because ear cleansers may contain chemicals that are harsh on the delicate ear canals, it is important to use only products as recommended by your veterinarian. 

I personally avoid homemade preparations and products containing propylene glycol. If for any reason, your pet becomes agitated or the ear cleaning procedure is excessively painful for your pet, stop and seek veterinary advice.

•Strong or foul odor

•Redness or leathery ear flaps

•Scratching or rubbing at ears or side of head.

•Ear discharge & excessive debris

•Shaking or tilting of the head

•Not wanting the head or ears to be touched

•Irritability

In my salon, if I see any of these signs, I do not touch inside the ears at all. 

This is a controversial topic that continues to make the rounds in the grooming and veterinary world. Some professionals think that ear plucking should be a part of a dog’s grooming regimen while others think it’s not.

According to veterinary dermatologists, plucking hair from a dog’s ear can do more harm than good. The procedure can cause microscopic tears in the tissues of the ear canal which can cause bacteria to invade and cause infection.

If recurrent ear infections are not a problem for your dog, there is no reason to pluck the hair from his ears regularly. 

Most veterinary dermatologists who say that the dog needs plucking due to ear issues, also say that they must do it under anesthesia because it’s too painful to pluck an infected ear. 

Just make sure the hair is well-trimmed, so the ear opening is not blocked and air flows freely. Keeping your pet’s ear hairs short can also prevent ear wax and debris from getting trapped.

 If you have concerns about the pets ears, make an appointment with your veterinarian. For chronic issues, seek a referral to a veterinary Dermatologist.

References:

https://petgroomermagazine.com/articles/techniques/no-ear-plucking

https://todaysveterinarynurse.com/dermatology/otitis-externa-inflammation-of-the-ear-canal/

https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/ear-care/chronic-ear-infections-in-dogs-what-you-need-to-hear-2/?amp=1

Yes. 

• I do not accept pets with fleas, however if fleas are found, the dog will be washed in flea shampoo and a $15. charge will be added to the bill. 
• This service fee will not be quoted up front, as fleas are usually found during the groom.
•  I make a determination whether to accept a dog with skin issues based on my experience. Even if your vet says it is okay to have the dog groomed, I may decide otherwise. 
• I do not accept dogs with broken skin or potentially contagious skin.
• Medicated shampoo must be prescribed by your vet and brought to the appointment. There is a $15 fee for the soak time needed.

 Yes. I will definitely help. Check out my videos on YouTube and my tools links at groomingsafer.com 

No, I prefer not to groom dogs during these times.

Do not bring them together. I can only work on one at a time. The dog that is not being worked on gets anxious and may stress.

No, we are not a daycare. Please arrive at your appointment time. Pick up within 30 minutes of the pet being finished.